Basics : Starter Kit
The best value starting point for a new aquarium is a 20g starter kit. I sell starter kits where I work and the profit margin does not even cover the cost of the transport and the labour to put them on a shelf. The retail business considers them as necessary loss-leaders to get people hooked on the hobby.
Fluorescent lights add significantly to the cost, but are a necessary investment if you will be keeping natural plants. A heater is highly recommended, even for cold water fish, as you want a stable water temperature. Gravel is usually not included, so go to the gravel page to read some pros & cons for your selection.
The components included in a starter kit are usually all entry-level and not of the highest quality. Generally, this is not a real problem, as they work and a little familiarity around their particular weaknesses will give you very good value for your investment. The first parts to change, if you develop a keen interest in the hobby are the filter and the heater provided, which then make good backup units.
Details...
Ten step assembly.
- Don't leave the store without opening the box, inventorying the parts, and inspecting the glass. In a contest between lift-trucks and aquariums, aquariums always lose.
- At home, unpack and review the contents. You should have a flat sturdy location for the stand, or have also purchased an aquarium stand. Avoid locations which have direct sunlight, or are in high traffic areas. Quiet corners, at eye level with your normal viewing location are ideal.
- optional: Place the tank on a piece of plywood, on your yard or garage floor and fill with water to inspect for leaks. Putting newsprint between the plywood and the tank will help locate any leaks.
- With the tank empty, install but do not plug in, your filter, heater and canopy (which might need cut-outs made).
- Once you are satisfied with the equipment locations (you might plan to hide or disguise the filter's pipe or the heater as you go along), then remove the canopy and start adding your rocks, driftwood, and gravel.
- Place a dinner plate on the gravel and slowly fill the tank about 1/2 way with room temperature water (directing the flow to the dinner plate). Then finish adding any plants (real, plastic or silk).
- Fill the tank so the waterline cannot be seen (ideally to about 74-75F/23-24C, or a few degrees lower than your desired goal). Having everything covered in tiny bubbles is normal. Some cloudy water would also be normal (particulates) and will typically clear in about a day. Cloudy water may re-appear while the tank is cycling (bacterial bloom), and is normal.
- Turn on the filter (follow manufacturer's directions, usually needing some water in the filter to prime it to start working), check operation of lights and if everything appears sound, add de-chlorinator and bacteria starter as directed.
- After about 15 minutes, plug in the heater. Turn the dial so the pilot life just goes off. Check the temperature on your thermometer (which ideally should be a few degrees lower than desired). After a few minutes, turn the dial so the pilot light just goes on. When the pilot light goes off (or is flickering but mostly off), check the water temperature. If you want it warmer, turn the dial slightly so the pilot light stays on. Repeat until desired temperature is reached (ie: 77F or 25C).
- Leaving the aquarium to run for a day or two will give you some measure of confidence that the filter, lights and heater are all working as they should, and will allow the water to outgas and equalize with the air in your home.
You are now ready to start adding fish. Be sure to research how many fish and what types of fish you should start with. It is very important to cautiously cycle (establish the bacterial balance) the aquarium, or fish damage will occur (and death and diseases are very likely). Cycling typically takes 4 to 6 weeks to complete.
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